Reviews

Restaurants, bars & cafes

Fare cop guv: Jamie’s Italian, Sydney

THERE'S A MOMENT IN THE FILM Six Degrees of Separation when Stockard Channing’s character, Ouisa, slaps the roof of the Sistine Chapel, touching the hand of God on Michelangelo’s Creation of Adam fresco. Given the chance, we’d all love to slap the almighty’s hand, but happily settle for lesser gods such ... Read more...

Poetic licence: Osteria Balla

I'M A BIG SUPPORTER of mandatory pre-commitment in casinos. Let’s start with their restaurants. You’ll need to commit to at least 60, if not 90 minutes to dining at Stefano Manfredi’s sleek new Italian venture Osteria Balla.  It’s not long and worth every second, but some people have already gambled away their ... Read more...

As seen on TV: L’étoile, Paddington

WHEN CHEFS BEMOAN LONG WORKDAYS, I have enormous sympathy. Some put in 60-hour weeks. And that’s just their television commitments. While I can understand the allure – a side serve of fame puts bums on seats – you wonder about the cost. It’s Friday night at L’etoile, and the star, Manu ... Read more...

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